heel to toe

We often opt for the back roads because coolness. And it’s important for Albert to upgrade his Italian driving skills. So, nearing dusk we headed for our out of the way (waaaay) accommodation for one night so we can visit Subiaco in the morning. We meandered in the dark up the side of a steep hill. The town is Fiuggi, and old Roman town where thermals baths existed, now a Banff-esque spa hotel town. Completely different than any other place we’ve ever been to in Italy. As we made our way to Subiaco in the light of day this morning, there were several thermal bath towns. So it’s a thing. As are sheep and cows.

From Naples we drove, via coast and mountain, to Montecassino where, atop a massive cliff, sits St. Benedict and Scholastica’s bones. And that’s not all. On top of those bones is a spectacular church, both the exterior and interior were worth the hairy switchback drive up the mountainside. As it was Sunday, we attended a sung Mass with stellar acoustics, the loveliest Mass we’ve had here in Italy. Three weeks of Italian Masses has not improved my Italian, but talking to locals helps. we had a lunch on the hillside in historic Roccasecca. Then climbed through the village and ruins of the Castello d’Aquino sits, where the saint nearest and dearest to me spent his young childhood before being sent to Monte Cassino for his formal education.

Naples is big and loud and crazy and fun. They love their city. So many churches. So many pastries. There’s a lot to do in and around Naples historically but we focussed on the historic center and spent, essentially, every waking moment exploring the streets, churches, alleyways and shops of Centro Storico. We went to the archeological museum and attempted to scratch the surface there, and also to the tiny museum of the chapel of Sansevero where, my pre-chosen deep desire of this trip was the statue of the veiled Christ. No pictures as we weren’t allowed , but here is a link for the interested.

Do you know what caper is? If you don’t… Every town, city, roadside, alleyway or ruin we’ve been to has caper growing out of its crevices. A little photo essay:

Our few days in Scilla were special. Quiet, restful, lovely dinners and lots of walking. There is a perpetual adoration chapel in the big church by the castle so that was a quiet place for prayer. We drove up the Tyrennian sea coast and again through the mountains to get to Naples. Take the toll roads, My friends. So many tunnels. And so we arrive in Naples, have a hotel cafuffle and settle in after, you guessed it, pizza. and here’s our new digs for the next couple of days: This morning: Church bound.

Last night we arrived at our destination in Scilla around dusk. We were overwhelmed with the beauty of the place, and it was almost dark, so that says something about it. After some rest and an excellent dinner, we went to bed anticipating the morning views. Not disappointed. We spent about three hours walking the town (steep, as seen, lotta stairs…) up to the castle and the church where for twenty years there has been perpetual adoration. The castle from 500 BC. Scilla remains a fishing village, swordfish is the hot take.